Tube Fly: Senyo's Elk Creek Craw

By Greg Senyo SAO

Step 1: Assemble a 22mm Eumer tear drop tube and attach tan 6/0 thread at the junction of the large tubing and brass tear drop.
Step 2: Tie in 6 to 8 three inch long strands of rubber legs, Here I use a metallic black. second tie in a 4 inch piece of Blood red large vinyl ribbing.
Step 3: Secure a piece of large red plastic bead chain eyes at the junction point where you secured your thread to start the pattern. second tie in a single brown schlappen feather.
Step 4: Palmer the hackle over the brass tear drop tube body and secure onto the plastic tube liner. Trim all hackles off the top and bottom of the pattern so that hackles only protrude from the sides.
Step 5: Attach a clump of three inch long Finn Raccoon fur over the top of the tube body. Secure the fur leaving about 1/4 inch of the base of the fur sticking out from tie down point, just pull back the raccoon fur and secure with thread wraps underneath. This will become the cray fishes tail.
Step 6: Wrap the blood red lace through the hackle and over the fur to create body segments. secure the vinyl lace under the fur tail.
Step 7: Apply an even coat of epoxy over the back of the fly to the eyes. Here I use Loon's UV Knot sense and a curing light to speed up the process.
Step 8: Place a large orange Eumer cone head onto the liner tube and slide up under the tail.
 
Step 9: Trim off extra liner tubing, leaving just enough to melt flush with the cone.
Several color combinations can be created to match several different water sheds and water conditions.
This is a simple Cray Fish Tube pattern that has just enough weight to get you down, yet is still small enough and easy to cast. Pattern was originally created for targeting Small Mouth Bass on Elk Creek, PA and surrounding tributaries.
   

Tube Fly-"Ice-Man" Minnow
by: Greg Senyo
Step #1: Take a 1/2 inch piece of Eumer Medium plastic tube. Wrap red tying thread which will become the gills of the fly evenly covering roughly a 1/4 inch in the center of the tube. Center tie a small clump of Pink Laser dub and fold the dubbing over onto itself.
Step #2: Center tie in a clump of Hare Line Pearl Ice Dubbing and fold over onto itself.
Step #3: Example of dubbings being folded over.
Step #4: Center tie in a small clump of Tan Laser Dub and repeat fold over of the material.
Step #5: Tie of the thread and attach 1 silver 3D prismatic eye to each side of the minnow.
 
Step #6: Turn the fly over and coat the thread and eyes with Loon's UV Knot Sense. Use a UV drying lamp or light to cure epoxy.
Step #6: This step can also be done as a group of flies to speed up the amount of patterns that can be produced while at the vice.

 

Final: Add a Diiachi X510 #10 to the rear of the pattern.

Tube Fly-Senyo's Real EZ Emerald

by: Greg Senyo
Step #1: Take a piece of 1/2 inch Eumer x-small plastic tube and join it with a 1.0 inch piece of Eumer Medium plastic tube. At the junction point add a drop of Zap-A-Gap and form a tapered thread body.(Use red thread it becomes the gills on the pattern.)
Step #2: Attach a 1.0 inch piece of Hareline Dubbin Inc. Pearl Baitfish Emulator Flash material. Once you secure the material add a drop of Zap-A-Gap.
Step #3: Palmer the Pearl Emulator Flash over the red tapered thread body and secure.
Step #4: Attach a small clump of Emulator Flash material in olive over top of the pearl.
Step #5: Attach two small 3D prismatic chartreuse eyes, one on each side of the body. Secondly coat the entire head with a light amount of Loon UV Knot Sense. The coating should be just enough to coat everything evenly around the head. Note: A UV light or curing Lamp is needed to harden the head. Mad River Outfitters offers a UV light or can get it for you.
Final: Trim the pearl Emulator Flash under belly to a fishy looking taper from the tail to the head. Cut off excess x-small tubing, just leaving enough tube to melt a small mushroom with a lighter.
Final #2: if you want to make it an egg stealing version, just add small 6mm egg bead before trimming tubing. Preferred hook for this pattern is the Gamakatsu drop shot #2.

A Simple Egg Tube fly Pattern

by: Greg Senyo
Here is an example of an easy egg pattern tied on a tube. the Trout bead gives this tube fly a realistic look and more weight allowing the fly to tumble along the river bottom. With the added rabbit strip this fly also had amazing action and a fleshy look. I use this pattern mostly for Salmon and steelhead, but have found this egg tube fly to be great for trout taking advantage of the fall Salmon egg " Hatch". Step #1: Take a .5 inch piece of x-small Eumer plastic tubing, and insert into a .75 inch piece of medium Eumer plastic tube. The x-small tubing should sit approximately .25 inches into medium tubing. Apply a drop of super glue and attach red 6/0 thread creating a thread base at the junction of the two tubes.
Step #2: Attach a .5 inch piece of Hare line two tone pink/orange rabbit strip and secure. Step #2: Attach a .5 inch piece of Hare line two tone pink/orange rabbit strip and secure.
Step #3: Form a small thread head and apply a drop of Zap-A-Gap. Cut off the tying thread and slide on a 6mm or 8mm Trout Bead ( color of choice). Press the egg bead firmly toward the rabbit strip. Step #3: Form a small thread head and apply a drop of Zap-A-Gap. Cut off the tying thread and slide on a 6mm or 8mm Trout Bead ( color of choice). Press the egg bead firmly toward the rabbit strip.

Final: Melt remaining x-small tubing to front of selected trout bead. Preferred hook for this pattern is a Diiachi X510 #10.


Robinson's Psychedelic Smurf Stone
by: Patrick "Flybum" Robinson

STEP #1:  Using a size 10 Daiichi 1560 (or equivalent), with a 1/8 brass bead, start your chartreuse thread and wrap to even with the barb of the hook.  At this point develop a small ball of thread to spread the biots coming in step #2.
STEP #2:  Select two black biots and tie in just in front of the ball of thread developed in step #1.  The biots should be tied in at a length equal to the exposed hook shank (bend to bead).   After you have captured the biots, clip the butts and wrap the thread forward to the bead for step #3.
STEP #3:  Starting at the bead, take Ultra Wire in Hot Yellow and Blue and tie it in, then wrap it down to the tie in point of the biots.
STEP #4:  Wrap both colors of the Ultra Wire forward simultaneously. This will give you the alternating color wraps.  Wrap to just behind the bead head, capture it with several wraps of thread and cut the wire.  

Note:  Make sure to pinch down the wire where it was cut.

STEP #5:  Wrap the thread back to just shy of the half way mark and tie in a pinch of peacock blue antron dubbing.
STEP #6:  Using Hairline Chartreuse Ice Dub, twist on a clump and prepare to dub the thorax.  The idea is for a round compact thorax.
STEP #7:  Wrap the Ice Dub in a compact manner until a small pea size thorax is developed.  Your thread should end up just shy of the bead thus allowing space for the last items needing tied in.
STEP #8:  Select two white biots and tie in on either side of the thorax.  The length of each should be equal to the length from the tail biots to the bead.
STEP #9:  Lastly, pull the biot butts back to reinforce the tie and then pull the peacock blue antron dubbing forward to form a wingcase and capture.  After several wraps to capture, again, pull the excess back to reinforce the tie.  At this point, you can clip the excess dubbing and biot butts from the nymph.  Finally, whip finish the head and clip the thread.
STEP #10:  Add head cement if desired, and trim away any ice dub you feel may interfere with the hook point.  Upon completion of those two things, this nymph is ready to fish.

The Psychedelic Smurf Stone (also known as Robinson's LLC...Lemon-Lime Chaser) is best fished in the dropper location...thus chasing another nymph or egg pattern in a two fly rig.

 
Patrick "Flybum" Robinson
Head Guide
Steelhead Alley Outfitters

SENYO'S WATER DRAGON

By; Greg Senyo

Step #1: Select a #8 to #4 black salmon hook (your choice) and attach 6/0 black thread. Wind thread toward rear of hook and stop even with hook point.
Step #2: Attach a 3 to 4 inch piece of Orange Rabbit zonker strip. Tie in 6 strands of gold or copper Flash-A-Bou.
Step #3: Select 6 plumes of 4 inch long orange ostrich and tie in over top of rabbit strip. Attach 6 strands of Magenta Flash-A-bou over top of the ostrich plumes.
Step #4: Dub in an 1/2 inch long thick under body of Orange Hare Line Ice dubbing, and comb out material.
Step #5: take two Orange marabou plumes and place one on each side of hook. While you secure the marabou the thread will force the material to spiral and cover 360 around the hook.
Step #6: Take Shrimp Pink and Magenta Colored Schlappen feathers, and tie both feathers in together using the base(widest part) of the feather. We want the soft marabou that the schlappen provides. Palmer both feathers to blend the colors and produce an even collar.
Step #7: Select 3 red grizzly hackle feathers, and tie in centered on top of pattern.
Final: Tie in a clump of Senyo's Laser dub(Orvis and Hare line Product) and a clump of Orange Ice Dubbing and comb the entire head with a dubbing brush.
View#1 of the finished pattern: Senyo's Water Dragon.
View #2 of the Water Dragon.
Even though this pattern is primarily used during dirty water conditions for Lake Erie steelhead, I found this pattern to be very successful for Great Lakes salmon as well. The Dragon is also an effective pattern on our sediment clouded warm water rivers for Smallmouth Bass, White Bass, and other toothy warm water predators.
 

Good Fishing! SAO Greg Senyo